一滴改變髮膚：阿甘油的成分、功效與兩款實作配方 / NAHA芳療協會期刊 2019 春季

阿甘油（Argan，Argania spinosa）

老實說，在為本文動筆之前，我對阿甘油（Argania spinosa）並不算熟（除了知道它在各種高檔護髮品裡很受歡迎）。於是我先買了一瓶來試，結果立刻被它的質地驚豔——非常清爽，吸收很快、卻又徹底，留下柔滑、被滋養的膚觸，沒有一點油膩殘留。雖然我並不特別喜歡這瓶冷壓未精製有機油的濃烈氣味，但反正我會把它放進配方裡，味道也會被和諧掉。我只是在想：這麼好的油，怎麼現在才遇見！

這種稀有而帶有異國風情的植物油，來自摩洛哥阿甘樹（Argania spinosa）果仁所榨取的油脂。阿甘樹是一種有「八千萬年前的遺存」之稱的樹種，冰河時期差點滅絕。過去廣布於北非的阿甘林，如今只存於氣候足以讓其躲過冰期的蘇斯（Souss）谷地。（約 3,200 平方英里，並於 1998 年被聯合國教科文組織列為生物圈保留區。） 阿甘樹在阿爾及利亞、突尼西亞也有栽培，然而截至目前，阿甘油幾乎都出自摩洛哥西南部——該國最貧困的地區之一——由婦女在 1980 年代「阿甘油計畫」（Argan Oil Project, AOP）推動下成立的婦女合作社生產。

阿甘油的等級

阿甘油有三種等級：化妝用等級、食用等級與原生美容油。食用油來自烘焙過的果仁；美容油則採未烘焙果仁冷壓而得。化妝用等級多半是歐洲以溶劑自進口果仁萃取。本文聚焦於冷壓油，亦即芳香療法中偏好的製程。

食用油呈金黃色、帶些微堅果風味；經謹慎烘焙可把保存期限延長至兩年，有趣的是，這個步驟並不會改變與未烘焙果仁冷壓油相比的脂肪酸組成。未烘焙的原生美容油則呈淡黃色、氣味極輕（略帶辛香／堅果調），保存期只有約三到四個月。不過也有研究發現：將此油密封存放於明處可維持約 200 天（六至七個月），若置於黑暗環境，則可能有「更長時間的穩定性」。

阿甘油的修護益處

阿甘油的修護價值，早在八個世紀前便被探險家與亞馬齊格（Amazigh，摩洛哥與北非原住民族）所記錄與實踐。傳統上，它既是飲食中主要脂質來源，也被用於多種健康／美容照護：例如心血管保護；頭髮與肌膚照護（預防落髮與乾燥、減少痘痘與痘疤、維持勻淨膚色、減少紋路、協助傷口與皮膚感染／發炎的修護）。

近年的研究顯示，亞馬齊格族群長久以來的經驗是有科學根據的：這種油對肌膚、髮質與心血管健康皆極有助益（而且不僅於此）。研究指出，它能降低低密度脂蛋白（LDL）膽固醇；也能降低血壓、高血糖與胰島素阻抗；此外，還展現神經保護、抗糖尿與護肝等潛在益處。

阿甘油的成分

上述多項功效，多半與其脂肪酸譜與極高含量的生育酚（tocopherols）有關——這些皆是優秀的抗氧化物。阿甘油含有 43–49% 油酸（Omega-9）、29–36% 亞麻油酸（Omega-6）、11–15% 棕櫚酸，以及 4–7% 硬脂酸。更重要的是，它的生育酚含量高，其中 81–92% 為 γ-生育酚，被視為所有生育酚中最有效的自由基清除者。阿甘油還含有抗氧化物輔酶 Q10（CoQ10）與褪黑激素（melatonin），以及植物固醇（以 schottenol 與 spinasterol 為主——兩者在其他植物油中相當少見）、角鯊烯（squalene），與下列酚類化合物（同樣具優秀抗氧化性）：香草酸（vanillic ACid）、丁香胺酸（syringic ACid），以及含量最高的阿魏酸（ferulic ACid）。有些資料也提到類胡蘿蔔素（β-胡蘿蔔素），但並非所有來源皆如此記載。

肌膚與頭髮的應用

無論如何，這是一份相當令人印象深刻的成分名單，而這個獨特的組合也帶來了傑出的——甚至是超乎平均的——肌膚與髮質照護表現。研究證實，每日外用可在四週內顯著降低皮脂分泌（四週之後雖仍有效，但改善幅度不再顯著增加）。阿甘油具有保濕力，能降低皮膚經皮水分流失（TEWL），並提升皮膚的整體含水量。另有研究顯示，它能增加更年期後女性的皮膚彈性；也有研究指出它有助於減少皮膚色素沉著／過度色素沉著。就頭髮而言，它能減少落髮、增加光澤與亮度，並保護髮幹、減少斷裂，讓頭髮得以留得更長。

如前所述，阿甘樹一度幾近滅絕，如今阿甘林的分布面積相對有限。伴隨這種被稱為「液態黃金」且「全球最昂貴可食用油」的人氣水漲船高，外界對阿甘林的關注也日增。保育與復育的嘗試，有人認為成效不錯；但也有人指出，森林面積並未明顯擴張，甚至可能因市場需求而加劇退化。另一方面，與多數稀有且昂貴的油品一樣，阿甘油也面臨摻假問題。因此，從具信譽且重視永續的來源採購，並在使用上珍惜節制，才是對這份珍貴液體的最好回應。

奢華豐盈護髮油（生長調理）

這是一款我現在至少每月會使用一次的護髮調理配方。依頭髮長度不同，可分為 2–4 次使用量。

成分

• 阿甘油（Argania spinosa） 0.25 盎司
• 荷荷巴（Simmondsia chinensis） 0.75 盎司

精油

• 依蘭依蘭（Cananga odorata） 4 滴
• 迷迭香 1,8-桉油醇型（Rosmarinus officinalis (L.) ct. cineole） 4 滴
• 真正薰衣草（Lavandula angustifolia） 4 滴

製作與用法

將兩種基底油與上述精油混合於小容器中。取數枚「十元硬幣大小」的用量，分區抹於乾髮，自頭皮至髮尾，直到全頭覆蓋。停留 15–30 分鐘後，以洗髮精清洗（是否需要潤髮，可視個人情況酌省）。成品請置於密封容器、遠離高溫與光照保存。

注意事項

孕期、高血壓或癲癇者，避免使用迷迭香精油。

青春之泉臉部精華油

這是我很喜歡調製的一款油性精華。總量約 1 盎司。

成分

• 阿甘油（Argania spinosa） 0.2 盎司
• 玫瑰果（Rosa canina L.）籽 CO₂ 萃取 0.2 盎司
• 月見草（Oenothera biennis）油 0.2 盎司
• 杏桃核仁（Prunus armeniACa）油 0.35 盎司
• 沙棘（Hippophae rhamnoides）果實 CO₂ 萃取 0.05 盎司

精油

• 玫瑰（Rosa × damascena） 1 滴
• 真正薰衣草（Lavandula angustifolia） 2 滴
• 依蘭依蘭（Cananga odorata） 1 滴
• 玫瑰草（Cymbopogon martinii） 2 滴

製作與用法

將所有基底油與精油混合於合適容器中。每日早、晚完成臉部清潔後，取一枚十元硬幣大小的量，均勻塗抹全臉。請置於密封容器內，存放於陰涼處；建議於四個月內用畢。

參考資料

1. Charrouf Z, Guillaume D. 2018. “The argan oil project: going from utopia to reality in 20 years.” OCL 25(2): D209. Retrieved from: https://www.ocl-journal.org/articles/ocl/full_html/2018/02/ocl170051/ocl170051.html

2. Dom Guillaume, PhD; Zoubida Charrouf, PhD, “Argan Oil”, Alternative Medicine Review Volume 16, Number 3. ACCessed February 15, 2019 from: http://www.altmedrev.com/archive/publications/16/3/275.pdf

3. Hanana, M.; Mezghenni, H.; Ben Ayed, R.; Ben Dhiab, A.; Jarradi, S.; Jamoussi, B.; Hamrouni, L. “NutrACeutical potentialities of Tunisian Argan oil based on its physicochemical properties and fatty ACid content as assessed through Bayesian network analyses.” Lipids Health Dis. 2018, 17, 138. ACCessed February 22, 2019 from: https://lipidworld.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/s12944-018-0782-9

4. Charrouf Z, Guillaume D. 2018. “The argan oil project: going from utopia to reality in 20 years.” OCL 25(2): D209. ACCessed February 15, 2019 from: https://www.ocl-journal.org/articles/ocl/full_html/2018/02/ocl170051/ocl170051.html

5. Dom Guillaume, PhD; Zoubida Charrouf, PhD, “Argan Oil”, Alternative Medicine Review Volume 16, Number 3. ACCessed February 15, 2019 from: http://www.altmedrev.com/archive/publications/16/3/275.pdf

6. Rahma Belcadi-Haloui, Abderrahmane Zekhnini, Miloud El Hadek and Abdelhakim Hatimi. “Effect of Light and Oxygen on Argan Oil Stability during a Long-Term Storage.” International Journal of Innovative Research in Science, Engineering and Technology. Vol. 4, Issue 2, February 2015. ACCessed February 23, 2019 from: http://www.rroij.com/open-ACCess/effect-of-light-and-oxygen-on-argan-oil-stability-during-a-longterm-storage.pdf

7. J Pharm PharmACol. 2010 Dec;62(12):1669-75. doi: 10.1111/j.2042-7158.2010.01190.x. ACCessed February 15, 2019 from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21054392

8. Charrouf Z, Guillaume D. 2018. “The argan oil project: going from utopia to reality in 20 years.” OCL 25(2): D209. ACCessed February 15, 2019 from: https://www.ocl-journal.org/articles/ocl/full_html/2018/02/ocl170051/ocl170051.html

9. Villareal MO, Kume S, Bourhim T, et al. “ACtivation of MITF by Argan Oil Leads to the Inhibition of the Tyrosinase and DopAChrome Tautomerase Expressions in B16 Murine Melanoma Cells.” Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2013;2013:340107. Retrieved from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23935660

10. Drissi A., Girona J., Cherki M., Godas G., Derouiche A., El Messal M., Saile R., Kettani A., Sola R., Masana L., Adlouni A. “Evidence of hypolipemiant and antioxidant properties of Argan oil derived from the Argan tree (Argania spinosa).” Clin. Nutr. 2004;23:1159–1166. ACCessed February 15, 2109 from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15380909

11. Midaoui, Adil El. Haddad, Youssef. Filali-Zegzouti, Younes. Couture, Rejean. “Argan Oil as an Effective Nutri-Therapeutic Agent in Metabolic Syndrome: A Preclinical Study.” International Journal of Molecular Sciences. Nov 22, 2017. Retrieved from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5713458/

12. Lizard, Gérard et al. “Benefits of Argan Oil on Human Health—May 4–6 2017, ErrAChidia, Morocco.” International Journal of Molecular Sciences vol. 18,7 1383. 28 Jun. 2017, doi:10.3390/ijms18071383

13. Charrouf Z, Guillaume D. 2018. “The argan oil project: going from utopia to reality in 20 years.” OCL 25(2): D209. ACCessed February 15, 2019 from: https://www.ocl-journal.org/articles/ocl/full_html/2018/02/ocl170051/ocl170051.html

14. Bauman, Leslie S., “Update on Argan Oil”, ACCessed February 23, 2019 from: https://www.mdedge.com/dermatology/article/115388/aesthetic-dermatology/update-argan-oil

15. Chouaa Taribak, Lourdes Casas, Casimiro Mantell, Zoubaida Elfadli, Rédouane E. Metni, and Enrique J. Martínez de la Ossa, “Quality of Cosmetic Argan Oil ExtrACted by Supercritical Fluid ExtrACtion from Argania spinosa L.,” Journal of Chemistry, vol. 2013, Article ID 408194, 9 pages, 2013. ACCessed from: https://doi.org/10.1155/2013/408194

16. Villareal, Myra O et al. “ACtivation of MITF by Argan Oil Leads to the Inhibition of the Tyrosinase and DopAChrome Tautomerase Expressions in B16 Murine Melanoma Cells” Evidence-based complementary and alternative medicine : eCAM vol. 2013 (2013): 340107. Retrieved from: https://www.hindawi.com/journals/ecam/2013/340107

17. Dom Guillaume, PhD; Zoubida Charrouf, PhD, “Argan Oil”, Alternative Medicine Review Volume 16, Number 3. ACCessed February 23, 2019 from: http://www.altmedrev.com/archive/publications/16/3/275.pdf

18. Bauman, Leslie S., “Update on Argan Oil”, ACCessed February 23, 2019 from: https://www.mdedge.com/dermatology/article/115388/aesthetic-dermatology/update-argan-oil

19. Boucetta, Kenza Qiraouani et al. “The effect of dietary and/or cosmetic argan oil on postmenopausal skin elasticity” Clinical interventions in aging vol. 10 339–349. 30 Jan. 2015, doi:10.2147/CIA.S71684

20. Villareal, Myra O et al. “ACtivation of MITF by Argan Oil Leads to the Inhibition of the Tyrosinase and DopAChrome Tautomerase Expressions in B16 Murine Melanoma Cells” Evidence-based complementary and alternative medicine: eCAM vol. 2013 (2013): 340107. Retrieved from: https://www.hindawi.com/journals/ecam/2013/340107/

21. Charrouf Z, Guillaume D. 2018. “The argan oil project: going from utopia to reality in 20 years.” OCL 25(2): D209. ACCessed February 23, 2019 from: https://www.ocl-journal.org/articles/ocl/full_html/2018/02/ocl170051/ocl170051.html

22. “Argan Oil For Hair Growth: How It Works And How To Use It.” ACCessed February 23, 2019 from: http://www.nicehair.org/argan-oil-for-hair-growth-how-it-works-and-how-to-use-it/

23. Charrouf Z, Guillaume D. 2018. The argan oil project: going from utopia to reality in 20 years. OCL 25(2): D209. Retrieved from: https://www.ocl-journal.org/articles/ocl/full_html/2018/02/ocl170051/ocl170051.html

24. Bauman, Leslie S., “Update on Argan Oil”, ACCessed February 23, 2019 from: https://www.mdedge.com/dermatology/article/115388/aesthetic-dermatology/update-argan-oil

25. Travis J. Lybbert, Abdellah Aboudrare, Deborah Chaloud, Nicholas Magnan, Maliha Nash. “Booming markets for Moroccan argan oil appear to benefit some rural households while threatening the endemic argan forest.” Proceedings of the National ACademy of Sciences Aug 2011, 108 (34) 13963–13968; DOI:10.1073/pnas.1106382108. ACCessed February 23, 2019 from: https://www.pnas.org/content/108/34/13963#sec-1

26. Charrouf Z, Guillaume D. 2018. “The argan oil project: going from utopia to reality in 20 years.” OCL 25(2): D209. Retrieved from: https://www.ocl-journal.org/articles/ocl/full_html/2018/02/ocl170051/ocl170051.html

27. Travis J. Lybbert, Abdellah Aboudrare, Deborah Chaloud, Nicholas Magnan, Maliha Nash. “Booming markets for Moroccan argan oil appear to benefit some rural households while threatening the endemic argan forest.” Proceedings of the National ACademy of Sciences Aug 2011, 108 (34) 13963–13968; DOI:10.1073/pnas.1106382108. ACCessed February 23, 2019 from: https://www.pnas.org/content/108/34/13963#sec-1

28. Charrouf Z, Guillaume D. 2018. “The argan oil project: going from utopia to reality in 20 years.” OCL 25(2): D209.